Monday, January 12, 2015

A Southern New Year - Charleston, SC

Tuesday, December 30, 2014
On Tuesday, we tried to visit the Avery Research Center, but unfortunately it was closed and wouldn't reopen for a few weeks. We grabbed our morning coffee at City Lights Coffee:


And then headed back to the City Market to see some of the sweetgrass baskets for sale there, and Roger chatted with some of the women who weave them.


We continued our rainy walk around Charleston, and took a few selfies. You'll note that we're all dressed up because we were hoping to go to Husk that afternoon for lunch. (Sadly, no luck, but we've heard unanimously positive things about it, so if you go, you should make a reservation!)



We walked to St. Philips Episcopal Church and wandered around their lovely graveyard. It was the first of many gorgeous southern graveyards we would see on the trip.




And then we made it to the Nathaniel Russell House Museum, which of course I loved. The house was decorated for Christmas, and I wish we'd been allowed to take photos so I could show you how gorgeous it was inside. I was especially in love with the yellow paint in the staircase and the painted canvas in the office at the opening of the house. Our tour guide was incredibly informative, and Roger especially liked the museum at the end, which had some of the house's collection on display. Of course it makes sense that they rotate the furnishings and china, but I hadn't ever thought of that before. Now I want to visit all sorts of houses multiple times to see things rotated in and out!


In addition to the beautiful doors, I sort of became obsessed with upping stones while we were in Charleston. (If you don't have an academia.edu account, you can read a little bit more about them here.) The only people who still ride in carriages are tourists, of course, but I think that keeping all the stones around is more about a respect for history than utility. I'd love to find out if there are any carriage blocks left in New York City!




After looking over the bay, we headed to Alkyon Arts & Antiques, where owner and southern gentleman Frederic S. LeClercq showed us his enormous collection. Each piece had a fascinating backstory and he was able to tell us about everything. We spent almost an hour looking around, and it was fascinating and a really wonderful experience.



After all that wandering, we were both feeling a little peckish. As I said earlier, we couldn't get into Husk for lunch, but we did head into Brown Dog Deli for a late meal, which had some fantastic sandwiches and fries. It was the perfect thing after a long day of walking around in the rain!

We drove to Magnolia Cemetery afterward, which was also beautiful. They were closing, so we just did a quick drive around, but it was very peaceful and I can imagine would be a lovely place to walk around. Also, apparently there are also alligators.



We made a quick stop at Redux Contemporary Art Center, which is part gallery space, part community space, and part studios. It was a really cool set up.




We closed out the evening at the Glass Onion, a great farm-to-table restaurant. Tuesdays are their fried chicken night, and it looked delicious, but unfortunately, you needed to reserve your chicken, so we enjoyed their gumbo and fried fish instead. It was very tasty, but we were totally stuffed by the end!

Next Up: We Spend New Year's Eve in Savannah!

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